Tricia's Roman Holiday: London: St. Paul's Cathedral and the surrounding area

The first building of note upon emerging from the St. Paul's Underground stop was the ruins and gardens of Christchurch Greyfriars.

Then we got a little lost and came across the next item.

Kind of catchy, don't you think?

Next was this rather impressive statue of Rowland Hill who in 1840 founded the Uniform Penny Postage.

That's St. Paul's Cathedral in the background.

Now if you have ever studied architecture under Davide Vitali, you would recognize the next picture as an axis. You'd also have to admit, however, that it's a little underwhelming, especially since once you pass through the (very) compressed space created by the two modern buildings, you find yourself in yet another (very) compressed space by the apse. It's just not a good idea to have no sense of relief upon emerging from tight spaces. But Wren obviously didn't create this problem...where are urban planners when you need them?

We paid a good deal of money to see the inside of St. Paul's. I think I had to pay about 16 GBP to enter; Bill's ticket was less expensive because he's reached that magic age. On the topic of St. Paul's Cathedral, I am going to say something very Catholic. First, why are the Protestants charging people to enter their churches? Wasn't charging fees one of the reasons for the Reformation in the first place? There is no fee to enter St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. Second, why is it a sin to take pictures in great churches when there is no service going on? St. Peter's lets you take photos. Wells Cathedral didn't charge for entering their church but did charge a nominal fee to take pictures. That seems like a fair compromise. But St. Paul's charges a huge entrance fee and prohibits the taking of pictures. I say that's not fair. Anyway, I have a confession to make. I did take a picture inside the church (and didn't get caught).

This is a view from the apse behind the high alter looking past the quire into the nave. It's not a very good pic because I had to snap it quickly before the guard noticed I was breaking the rules.

And another thing... I used to think that I wasn't very fond of St. Peter's Basilica (the church, that is; I love the colonnade). St. Peter's is huge and opulent. BUT... St. Peter's interior appears as a unified whole, unlike St. Paul's. The nave of St. Paul's is reminiscent of Palladian architecture but with a lot more Baroque geegaws added, such as intricately carved garlands. At the crossing, however, the style changes; it becomes much more ornate with gold mosaics and a baldacchino both of which are similar to St. Peter's. In Baroque terms, the nave is finished in monochromatic whites like San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane while the rest of the cathedral is comprised of gold and brown tones like San Andrea al Quirinale. You can put the two next door to each other but not in the same building! It's interior language just seems a bit confused to me. Also, the sepia-toned scenes painted in the dome represent events in St. Paul's life, but that wasn't apparent to us.

Bill and I climbed to the top of the drum but not to the top of the dome (acrophobia). (BTW, the Vatican apparently does charge to climb to the top of its dome). Here are some pictures of London from that vantage point. The first picture is The Shard.

Next is London's eclectic modern skyline.

Bill at the top of the drum (happy to be alive).

Here is a proper axis from St. Paul's across the Millennium Bridge to the south riverbank of the Thames. The Globe Theatre is located just to the left of the bridge.

Next is the south clock tower and the London Eye in the distance.

I was surprised to see staggered steps used so long ago. Tim Maddox, a Fayetteville architect, used them in one of his modern homes, proving that everything old is new again.

I find the outside of St. Paul's more appealing. Either the neoclassical elements (including the quasi-medieval westwork with its Baroque overtones) work better together because of the consistent use of materials, or else I am more comfortable with its form because it reminds me of the U.S. Capitol.