Saturday, February 21, 2015

Papal Audience: the guys who work there


First of all, this guy works there! I know, this is an awful picture, but Pope Francis was so close to me on his Popemobile that he was out of focus!


Next there are either bishops or cardinals or both--it's kind of hard to tell if that is cardinal red or bishop's purple. Anyway, they were present for the reading of the Gospel in Italian, French, English, German, Portuguese, Arabic and a Slovakian language. More on that later.


Next there are these guys, the Swiss Guard. Don't let their costume fool you. He is wearing an earpiece! And check out the back of his leggings--aren't they wild!


He's probably got a Beretta under that cape, but if he ever had to pull out his gun, would he have to first remove his white gloves? He's got his eyes on you!


Next are the Gendarmerie who have Interpol access and look like they were just discharged from the French Foreign Legion based on their Charles de Gaulle hats.


When Bill goes to work at the Vatican Library, the Swiss Guard always salute him and sometimes the Gendarmerie do, too. By the way, Bill's title is Il Chiarissimo Professore - most illustrious professor. In Italy, I am La Dottoressa Quinn since I hold a bachelor's degree.


Then there are the photographers (Papa-razzi, according to Bill). It's really nice that their photos are uploaded so that if you are lucky enough to be photographed with the Pope they are available as keepsakes.


Next there are the Secret Service guys in plain suits.



My favorite (next to the Pope) were the Sediari, Papal ushers or the Vatican's answer to Walmart greeters. They are called the Sediari because they used to be the Pope's chair bearers (before the Popemobile). Their full title is something like Gentiluomo di Sua Santita'--Gentleman of His Holiness. Theirs is an honorary, unpaid position. The saddest part of their job is that when a pope dies, they are the pall bearers.They have the best uniforms. Here is an older gentleman who looks like a baron, and the way-too-handsome young dude who should be a model.


Don't they look dapper in their well-pressed cut-away suits with dove gray vests and medallions? Bill and I had never seen such people around the Vatican before, so I went up to a man wearing a suit with red piping (from the pics, I think he might be an official chair-mover) and asked about these "gentlemen" in Italian not knowing that "gentlemen" was part of their title. Anyway, he explained that they took care of the VIPs. Here is one such VIP, a chef wearing his toque.  I sure wouldn't want to be sitting behind him!



On Ash Wednesday there were four sets of VIPs: the disabili, the crowd to the left of the Pope, the crowd to the right, and the crowd behind which we couldn't see until the photos were posted by the Vatican. The last group turns out to be the newlyweds and the brides got to wear their gowns again. Anyway, at the end of our little exchange on the role of the well-dressed men, I was told that they really do nothing...fanno niente! Bill and I always get a kick out of joking in Italian! By the way, here are the chair-movers.



But back to the handsome men...I must add that the very handsome young guy (don't worry about Bill, he thought he was handsome, too) did pull his weight with crowd control. You see there was this nun who was a hanger-on-er (and actually stood in the way of my getting the shot of the Pope playing vroom with the toy car, though I was able to see it myself). Anyway, this young man finally got her to move on.



The retinue wouldn't be complete without adding the scores of Italian federal police (the Carabinieri), the City of Rome police, and the guy Bill saw on the roof of the Vatican (a sniper, perhaps).




Thursday, February 19, 2015

Papal Audience: The Vatican



Bill and I left the apartment at 6:30 am and walked about 20 minutes to reach the northern side of the Colonnade. Here we are waiting in line on the north side of the Portico and under the arch of the Passeggiata.


Arch at the Passeggiata and Bernini's Colonnade. We had lots of time to stand around and look at what we thought were surveillance cameras (they are actually downspouts). Speaking of surveillance, scores of Carabinieri arrived to patrol the area. I was glad of that since ISIS has vowed to "conquer Rome" by sending its members (mixed in with those sincerely seeking asylum) on ships leaving northern Africa for Italy. Libya was a former colony of Italy and, well nothing quite says "Christianity" like the Vatican. Eventually, the Carabinieri opened the metal detectors and we were allowed into the reserved area.


We found seats along an aisle in the second row. Below the Disabili are seated in a special area. At the end of the audience, the Pope made his way to visit one-on-one with the disabled and their families. There will be a special blog on that later which was, by the way, my favorite part of the morning.


A view from my aisle seat in the second row.


It's good to know that a vehicle can drive up the steps.


Looking behind me, there aren't many people yet. We had reserved tickets, but people can pick up available tickets on the morning of the audience. The people along the back chose those seats because they knew the Popemobile would pass by. Fortunate for those of us in front, he came our way, too, and twice!


Peter's gold key in the frieze.


A seagull on top of Christ's cross.


On the way to the servizio.


Medieval meets Baroque.


Papal Audience: Photos of us taken by Vatican photographers

The Vatican provides an extensive, and I mean extensive, photographic record of the Pope's audiences. If you are interested in seeing us from the Vatican's point of view, here is how to do it. Since I was able to stand along the front rail, we are visible in a number of pictures. Of course, since Bill is head's above the rest, you can see him much better.


My own pictures (504 of them) will be organized and presented in subsequent blogs.

Monday, February 16, 2015

Civitavecchia: skies


You know when you're sitting in your first high school art appreciation class and the teacher points to a Turner, you say to yourself, "there's no such sky." But then you go to Italy, and sure enough, Turner turns out to be more of a realist than you thought. When we arrived in Civitavecchia, the skies were that flat, rainy gray where building edges disappear into each other. But then the skies cleared and as the sun began to set, the heavens produced this lovely and changeable chiaroscuro effect...so Italian, the skies!





And just for the record, these photos were taken with my iPhone and have not been photoshopped!


Civitavecchia: rocks


One picture of a bunch of rocks and some water is hardly worthy of its own blog. Nevertheless, I have in my mind a collection of paintings that involve sun, water and earth. This may or may not make it into the project, but in the meantime, it's an attractive study of browns, blues and grays.

Civitavecchia: everything, including the kitchen sink


As we walked toward the large ferry, I spotted this row of cars. I was reaching for my iPhone camera, when I received the warning from Bill, "Keep walking, Tricia." Followed by the reminder, "You know if someone comes after us, you run for help--don't stay around and try to help me." OK, message understood. He had seen the "Roma" or "Romani" or gypsies off to the side.

...So we walked to see the ferry, and on the way back Bill gave me the go-ahead to pull out my camera. Do these cars belong to the gypsies? Well, belong might not be quite the right word here. Still, the station wagon in the foreground is a Mercedes...I don't even drive a Mercedes!


I mean, have you ever seen more crap in--and on--a car?


It brings family camping to new heights, 
especially when you strap your kitchen sink to the top of your car.


Now that I've let loose on a string of snarky remarks, 
to whomever these cars belong, my heart goes out to them.
It is not the way to live.


Civitavecchia: fishing nets


I think fishing nets are beautiful!

 

This fisherman was sorting out his net as we headed to the embarkation buildings for the large ships. A half an hour later when we returned he was still at it.


A new use for soccer balls!






Another shot of the boat with the big net.